Napoleon Bonaparte famously said: “In victory one deserves Champagne; in defeat one needs it!” As English sparkling wine continues to trounce big-name Champagnes in one blind tasting after another, that comment—unlike good bubbly—may not have aged all that well for the Champenois. And one English winemaker leaves the Champenois licking their wounds more often than most. Cult English winemaker and critics’ darling Dermot Sugrue perfectly bridges that gap between the more autolysis-dominated profile of the Grande Marques and the acid drive and mineral verve of the trendiest grower champagnes.
Importantly for Singapore Wine Club, his wines are extremely friendly with Singaporean food. Sparkling wine definitely has a reputation for being food-friendly, but even so, pairing sparkling wines with Singaporean food poses considerable challenges. Southeast Asian seasonings, with their mélange of spices, umami flavours and ubiquitous and liberal use of sweetness, poses headaches for even the most seasoned () sommeliers.
This challenge is particularly prominent when considering wine pairing with zi char, the beloved family favourite. For the uninitiated, zi char (or tze char) stalls serve a wide range of Southeast Asian dishes, mostly Chinese in origin, meant to be consumed with rice. Sounds vague? That’s because zi char menus are as amorphous as they get. It’s all down to the creativity of the chef. The biggest difficulty when it comes to zi char wine pairing, besides convincing the grumpy coffeeshop auntie to let you BYOB (pro tip: buy something, preferably a beer, from the drinks stall to smooth things over!), is finding a wine that’s versatile enough to go with that wide variety of dishes, and bold enough to stand up to their rich flavours.
We took three of Sugrue’s wines down to local zi char legend Keng Eng Kee, which counts among its fans the late and sorely-missed Anthony Bourdain and the Korean pop star Rain, to put them through their food-pairing paces. We ordered an array of zi char staples and in each case, the Sugrue wines performed brilliantly, cutting through the inevitable grease with their bright acidity while boasting sufficiently vibrant flavours to stand out in their own right. And while you really can’t go wrong pairing any Sugrue wine with pretty much any zi char dish, so long as it’s not extremely spicy, we also identified three top pairing picks for you try out at home.